So, the adventure comes to an end on an aeroplane across the Atlantic. The flight isn't too full, so we have three middle seats between the two of us. T is, as usual, having a nice nap whilst I type up the last of the blog.
Pretty soon we'll arrive at Gatwick and the next task will be to try to eat all the foods that we have been missing (and compiling lists thereof) without being sick!
Hasta la vista, America.
We decided to spend our last few days in Texas (Our Trans-Atlantic flight was ex-Houston). Originally we were due to go to San Antonio, but it appears that the weather is appalling there, so we cancelled the reservation and indended to head up to Austin.
As our plane arrived at 4pm, we didn't book a hotel in Austin.
Unfortunatley, US Airways managed to lose our luggage in Charlotte and so we had to hang around the airport for 4 hours. We did get to see some of David Beckham's first match in LA (Chelski won 1-0). We watched it in the same bar that we had had our dinner in on our way out - it was a real deja vu moment.
I managed to remember the way to the bit of Austin I knew (I had spent 6 weeks there in 2003) and we checked into the Holiday Inn at 2am.
Austin is nice. We did a few things:
Eventually, we set off for Houston and stopped by a Waffle House to experience one. T approved. Apart from forgetting to refill the tank, we had an uneventful journey and arrived in plenty of time for our last hop.
We were up before the crack of dawn to check in. I had been especially selected for super security screening. We had a puff machine - which was funky. That's the second time I've be singled out on an internal US flight to Boston. Hmm.
The flight was fine and our luggage arrived safely. T commented (somewhat prematurely, I felt) that we hadn't lost our luggage once on our travels. It was true - then.
We took the T (T, the Boston train, not the travelling companion) to Davis square and waited for ages to get a taxi. Eventually we got to my friend Cindy's house (O.K. Cindy, Tim, Fiona and Bean's house) and let ourselves in.
Cindy and Tim hosted us excellently. And Maria came over to have a holiday photo exchange. We managed to bore everybody to sleep. One of our tasks before we go visiting must be to pare down the pix.
We did go into town. We touristed: Lunch at the Bull and Finch (now called the Cheers bar) and lots of walking around. And a beer at the top of the Prudential tower.
Some of our time was helping look after Fiona. I'm not sure T would get her Girl Guide parenting badge - if this picture is anything to go by. (actually, she would)
We hired a car and went up to Salem and Rockport, which was nice.
We also went whale watching, it was really enjoyable and we saw lots of whales. Mostly whale tails. The guides were very good though.
Our car was from New Hampshire. I had to take a picture of the license plate.
We lived free.
After a magnificent breakfast, we were dropped off at the airport and goodbyes were said. Thanks Cindy and Tim.
We stayed a night in Miami because we pretty much had to. As our flight to Boston needed a 5am check-in, we decided to stay at the airport. It was OK, if noisy (from people banging doors, not planes taking off).
After initially deciding to get an early night, we changed our minds and headed into town for a cocktail and some food. Which was a good decision.
We had drinkies at a very nice hotel (the Raleigh) on the beach.
And then we went down to SoBe (South Beach) to 'Mangoes' - an institution. It was fun. Many mojitos were taken. Dancing was watched.
As we left to go back to the hotel, Brazilians were thronging the streets. They had just beaten Argentina 3-0 in the Copa America final.
And so to bed - early to rise.
So, the Latin American part of the tour is over. We have 10 days in the USA to help acclimatise to English; food; being able to put bog roll in the toilet; that kind of thing.
Apart from endless security checks, going to Miami was a breeze. We were in Business class (the only ticket they had left, and not that much more anyway). Which was OK, but not super-good. We did drink fizzy wine though.
Cartagena is a very pretty place - we took a horse drawn trip around it and T took some pictures
Another horse pulled up next to us.
We also took a three day trip to the beach north of Cartagena, we did little but read, watch TV and Swim. It was very relaxing and the food was exquisite.
Our last evening in Cartagena was spent wandering around.
The old walls are quite a sight.
And so to bed. (via Cafe del Mar, without bumping into friends this time, and a nice pizza on the square)
Partially because our hotel was full, but mostly because it was a place to go to - we decided to go to the Islas del Rosario. Our hotel recommended Isla del Piratas, which was pretty expensive, but we decided to go for it anyway.
Up at the crack of dawn (obviously they didn't know we were now on holiday) we went to the rather haphazard dock to get our boat.
After much faffage, we were on our way. Cartagena is in a natural harbour, protected by islands - it's quite cool. The Spanish build fortresses to guard the main entrance.
We checked into our hotel and then had to get put in the right room. It was right on the beach and we were constantly barraged by people trying to sell us crabs; lobsters; snorkelling trips; bangles; stuff. Some of them did it from boats passing by.
T made herself at home.
The location and the scenery were quite amazing.
Unfortunately, the local wildlife was quite ferocious and the room was a bit too rustic to keep them out. After a sleepless night, bitten to within an inch of our lives, we decided to return back to town (and A/C) the next day. It was an expensive and unpleasant trip. Which was a shame - as it could have been so nice.
Upon return to town, we checked into a nice (but also very expensive) hotel with a rooftop pool. After observing 3 Colombians showing off their iPhones, we were informed that the bar couldn't serve us any beer. Apparently there was an election the next day and so there is no alcohol allowed to be sold the night before or the day itself. Bizarre.
Cartagena is nice. We like it. We are staying in the old town which is very picturesque, safe and interesting. There is another area nearby which is the 'beach' area which we haven't been to yet - but it is full of tall buildings and chain hotels. Here in the old town, things are much more relaxed.
We haven't seen much evidence of large numbers of foreign (i.e. non South American) tourists here - which is quite nice too.
Cartagena has its fair share of pretty squares with churches too.
After strolling around town, we decided to head to Cafe del Mar for sundowners. We were the first there, but by the time sunset arrived, there were about 40 people in all. We had a Mojito each. It was pretty.
After sunset, T had an "Oh, My, God!" moment as she spotted some people she knew from London-town. Emma and Simon were duly joined and we had a couple more mojitos to celebrate.
A lovely evening which involved a meal; some strolling; going to a cash machine; lots of nattering ; some mojitos; some beer and, half a bottle of rum; was had by all.
We did not get up early the next day. We are On Holiday
We are investigating going to Panama by boat, but T isn't very keen at all - after Captain Eric.
BTW - it is hot and humid. A/C in the room is a must.
So, we got up in time for our flight (at 11:30am - what a reasonable time it was too) and flew from Quito to Bogota and thence to Cartagena.
Bogota airport is quite the most surreal one I've been to. Amongst the many bizarre events, was the rather curious sight of people flying with plastic bags stuffed to the gunnels with Dunkin Donuts (sic).
We finally arrived in the sweltering heat of Cartagena (pronounced "cart-a-hen-yer") and checked into our lovely hotel with soft beds, air conditioning and a pool.
We cracked open a couple of beers and declared the travelling to be over and that we were now, officially on holiday.
So far, on holiday has been: have a nice meal; have a nice sleep; lie in bed reading books.
We awoke, stiff and tired and went for breakfast. We then decided to do some admin: laundry; book exchanges and lunch soon passed and we were at leisure to become tourists.
We took a taxi to the old part of town which, whilst interesting, was yet another old part of a South American city with lots of churches, squares and white buildings.
We took the walking tour recommended in the Lonely Planet as far as the (rather disappointing, if old) ice cream shop and then decided on a change of tack.
T reluctantly agreed to come with me up the new Teleferico (cable car - T hates cable cars) to have a view over the city. It was OK.
After a slightly unpleasant return trip (the two lads in the car with us were restless and T had to resort to glowering at them to get them to stop moving about) we alighted in the amusement arcade where I beat T at driving games and she beat me at Dolphin Derby (and won herself a stuffed toy to boot). We got a cheap bus back down to town, which stopped outside the laundrette. Which was closed.
After waiting for an hour or so in the Cafe next door, the lass came out of the laundry and gave us our clothes. We retired to our rock (in a nicer room, but still a rock) for another restless night.
So, we arrived in Quito and spent our first night savouring the cheap rates at the Marriott. T had an early night and I went down to the bar for a burger and to read my book. We had a great night's sleep and were ready to face the day.
After discovering that the hotel's rates were going to increase dramatically for Sunday night, we decided to check out and look for somewhere else. We spotted Hotel Vieja Cuba on Trip advisor and so got in a taxi to it.
About 1 minute later our taxi driver pulled up outside the new hotel. We booked the last room for two nights and then got the driver to go back and pick up our bags.
Once we'd deposited our bags in our new (and significantly cheaper) accommodation, we asked our driver to take us to the Equator.
We drove for about 45 mins and were taken to a spectacular view over a volcanic crater (which was now green and fields and had people living on it). Then he took us to the Museum (Inti something) where they have some 'ethnic' displays (including a shrunken head)
There was the real equator (as defined by GPS - no less. Of course, after carting the thing around for the last 5 months, I forgot to take my GPS to prove it. Doh!)
Finally, there were some 'experiments' that were supposed to demonstrate the power of the Equator. (Total and utter rubbish). However, I did balance an egg; and get a certificate for so doing.
After the unofficial (but amusing) visitor centre, we went to the less amusing but much more touristy official centre. About 240m away from the real equator.
After all that middle of the road adventure, we decided to go for a Thai meal. At the most central, slowest (and possibly worst) Thai restaurant in the world.
We then retired to the igneous rock that they called a bed for a fitful night's sleep.
We awoke to blessed silence; a comfortable bed and lashings of hot water. After getting up and breakfasted we went out in search of travel agents.
After finding one closed (for the weekend) and another closed (for good) we went down town; to find more closed. Deciding that we were not going to get anywhere in Guayaquil (at least until Monday) we then had to decide what to do. Staying in Guayaquil didn't seem too promising; going to Cuenca (our original plan) didn't seem to be easy (or, at least, the staff at the Sheraton couldn't work it out); going to Quito by bus was out of the question; going to the Galapagos on spec seemed to be unwise. We then decided that, as we were a free 3 minute drive from the airport, we would go to the airport and see what was on offer.
Looking at the departure boards, two options seemed in order.
Quito allowed us to pursue the Galapagos dream on Monday and then, perhaps, continue to Cartagena as planned. San Jose meant going back to parts of Central America that we had jumped over in our haste to escape Honduras (post passim).
We tossed for it - Heads, Quito; Tails, San Jose.
We got a 30 quid flight to Quito and that's where we are now. Not sure what we are going to do next.
Our hotel room turned out to be the noisiest room in the world. Doorbells; shouting staff; cockerels and the A/C unit were silent whispers compared to the cacophony that started at about 6:00 am when the dolled-up cars in the car park right under our window all decided to rev their engines up to see if they worked.
Ears ringing, we decided to take a mini-van from Piura to Tumbes (in the far north of Peru - near Ecuador) and went at the speed of light. The lorry we passed, obviously had just gone a bit too fast.
We arrived in Tumbes about 5 mins before the next bus to Guayaquil (the biggest city in Ecuador). The bus was to take 5 hours, so we would arrive in town at about 7:00pm - not ideal, but that's the way the cookie crumbles.
The border between Ecuador and Peru in Aguas Verdes (where we crossed) is, according to the book, the worst border crossing in South America. I can see why. Most borders are short, straight roads with a big flag at one end on a building and another big flagged building at the other. With helpful signs like "Peru - depart" and "Ecuador - arrival" on them. Not so this one. Both of the buildings (the Ecuador one in particular) are reasonably nondescript and are not exactly close to each other.
Allegedly, taxis agree to take you across, but then dump you in the middle of a market and hand you over to some 'guide' who then charges 5 bucks each to show you where the border post is. etc...
We avoided all this by using an International company - CIFA. So we were taken from Tumbes to the Peru border to the Ecuador border and then on - so far so good.
What then happened is that our bus turned into some local bus, stopping every 10 minutes to let people on and off. It ended up taking seven and a half hours.
Light relief was obtained by the people who get on and off these buses at random times who try to extract money from you in various ways. Small, barefooted kids look at you doe-eyed; vendors offer all sorts of food, drink and ice-cream; people with sob stories and, the creme de la creme - some bloke selling powders that rid you of worms ("PARASITO", according to his papers). Priceless.
Eventually we turned into some dark back-alley in Guayaquil and stumbled along to find a taxi. After a journey like that, we decided to splash out on a Sheraton, cheap if you just walk-in. Even the live band playing outside our room didn't keep us awake.
Our bus rolled into Trujillo right on time. We hadn't decided exactly what we wished to do, however we wanted to push up north asap (but didn't really fancy another overnight bus). As we gathered our thoughts in the bus office, we were approached (as always) by a whole raft of taxi drivers offering to take us anywhere we wanted. One spoke reasonable English, seemed to know what he was talking about and was very polite. We asked him to take us to the next bus station to find out about times and tickets up to Piura, Mancora or Tumbes.
We were too early for the first company, but El Dorado was open. We booked tickets for the 12:45pm bus and thus had 5 hours to kill. We negotiated (a bit) with our driver, who would take us where we wanted until then for 70 Soles (about 12 quid).
And that's how we met Celio Eduardo Rodan. He was in the guidebook, mentioned by name as "Helpful and Informative Taxi Driver" (which he was). Since the publication of the book he had added "Official Tour Guide" to his list of titles. He suggested that we get breakfast first (as the sites were all shut) and took us to a nice breakfast place. He also suggested that we went to the Temples of the Sun and Moon and not just Chan-Chan. Top chap.
The Temple of the Sun wasn't really visit-able, but the temple of the Moon was. It was very interesting and was in the middle of being excavated. Some of the friezes on the walls were quite impressive.
Celio seemed to know everyone, and he certainly knew a lot about the temple. It was very enlightening. As we were leaving, hordes of tiny (but very polite) schoolchildren descended upon the site. It's nice to see that the local government deem it important to show the kids their ancestral heritage.
From there we went to Chan-Chan. It was vast. I didn't think it was as interesting as the Temple of the Moon, so I'm glad we followed Celio's advice. Again, he seemed to know everyone and was informative about what we were seeing. We also saw a Peruvian native (hairless and very ugly) dog.
Celio then took us to get some munchies for our trip and then on to the bus station. This time we had our fingerprints taken before being allowed on the bus.
On arrival into Piura, we checked into the Portales hotel on the square. We got the last room; had some food; watched Argentina stuff the USA 4-1 in the Copa America and retired.
We left Cuzco by plane. After paying the airtport tax (which all seems like such a dodgy operation to me) our flight was full and slightly delayed, but uneventful.
We arrived in Lima and prepaid our cab. We had decided to spend some of the budget surplus we had made by not booking the right dates in Aguas Calientes by staying in a posh place in Lima. We stayed in the Hotel COuntry Club Lima. Very Nice. Fizzy pop on checkin!
We did almost nothing except read, eat and sleep on the first day. It was lovely.
Also, by some miracle, the computer screen, which had gone so wrong in the Bolivian Altiplano - seemed to have magically fixed itself. Amazing.
Day two in Lima found us unwilling to brave the sights, so we decided instead to go to the posh shopping complex in Miraflores.
We had a USofA day. Burger King; Shrek 3; 10 pin bowling and then KFC to steel us for our overnight bus trip north to Trujillo. It was heaven.
I bought some Peruvian music and we headed to the Marriott (across the street) to get a posh taxi to pick up our luggage and take us to the bus.
We had booked our favourite sets with Liz (from Cuzco) and, after dodging some ladies of the night and working out how to check in to the bus (video cameras, bag searches - the works) we set off.
We had our usual seats, however they appeared to be slightly differently configured, as my legs barely had room to turn. Ho Hum. The bus did have wi-fi though - how bizarre.
We set off to Cuzco by taxi. We were stopped at one point. The taxi driver had his taxi licence but not his plates (or something). After a few minutes the police let him carry on. I didn't see any cash change hands - but you never know.
Back to the hotel in time to go to Inti Raymi. Whatever that is. We got a very expensive (5 times the normal price) taxi to take us to the bottom of a huge (not as huge as Machu Picchu - but huge enough) hill.
We then, hardy altitude adapted people that we are, walked up said hill to "Sexy-Woman". We joined the throngs of locals (the majority of the tourists were on the other side of the arena in 70 dollar a-pop seats).
We saw some people with Cuzco flags.
And we same lots more pagentry.
Where we were standing was so far away (and behind a slight rise in the field) that we couldn't really see anything. Eventually the locals got frustrated by being disenfranchised from their ceremony in favour of the rich tourists that they broke through the line (bit of plastic tape) and ran forward about 50 yards to get a reasonable view.
Another charge of another 50 yards and the police decide to draw the line. By this time, we could pretty much see what was going on. Without much context - it was a little dull.
We wandered back down the hill and to a Gringo haunt (the Crossed Keys) for beer and a burger. The ceremony up the hill was being televised. So we got to see the llama's heart after all.
After bumping into people we had met on the Navimag ferry in Chile, we had a good slug of beer or twelve and retired home slightly woozy.
I woke up this morning with a sore head, which I blamed (unsuccessfully) on the altitude.
It is now 1pm and T is still in bed, relaxing and reading her book. I have been blogging. We must get lunch soon.
So, after doing everything there is to do in Aguas Calientes (actually, that's not true - we didn't go to the hot springs) we decided to leave a day early. I woke up at the crack of 5:30 and went down to the ticket office to change the tickets.
2 hours later, T came to find me - still in the queue. One fella behind the counter and 40 odd people (up at that time) wanting tickets.
Luckily we got the tickets changed and were on the first train out of Dodge.
We went to Ollantaytambo and got a taxi to Urubamba.
We stayed in a lovely quiet place, just outside town.
Transport is by tuc-tuc. Which made T homesick for Brighton.
We went to a restaurant that was mentioned in the Lonely Planet. It was lovely. The chef/owner who was from Lima, via the USA, was very enthusiastic. The food was exquisite.
Back to our hotel to catch up on stuff.
Chill out and get some sleep.
Ahhh.
So, as we were standing in one of the queues to get into MP, a rumour started that Cameron Diaz was there. I'll be honest, I thought it was probably a wind up. But, as we waited for the sun to rise, more and more people were talking about it, some claiming 1st hand sightings.
Anyway, after sunrise we let the mobs move into the ruins proper and then ambled down ourselves. We stopped at a corner of a walkway and looked down on the ruins for a bit.
Then, coming down the path towards us was a bloke with a big furry microphone (o.k. the microphone isn't big and furry, the windshield is - but the effect is the same). I nudged T and we sat in awe and wonderment as the mighty one herself passed by - within inches. With about 5 people in the official camera crew, about 5 more paps (with impressively large camera lenses) and then hordes of people.
Natch, we got our own pics.
We then spent the best part of the next hour watching the site from the same position, seeing the ripples of people scrumming around to get a glimpse of the mighty one and taking their own pics.
At one point one of the film crew appears to get grumpy and shouted "Look! people - ruins". It would have had more effect if he himself hadn't been more interested in CD than MP. Plonker.
Later on, we spotted the paps with their laptops out, presumably sending their ill gotten gains back to their agencies.
Later still, we passed the same group of paps, who had asked some joe-public to take a picture of them as a group - I wish I'd got a picture of that.
In unrelated (yeah, right) news, there is an internet vote going on at the moment to choose the new 7 wonders of the world. Some group (or a bloke) has set himself up as a company and is running an online poll to select 7 (from a shortlist of 21) wonders. All marketing hype if you ask me.
MP - as one of the 21, is pushing hard - you can't move in Aguas Calientes for posters about it.
You can even vote online at the site itself.
The 21 competitors are:
I have been to 10 of the 21. Sorry MP - you aren't one of my top 7. It's only 14th century, you know.
If you want (and the site isn't down for "scheduled maintenance") you can vote. I don't think I'll bother though.
So, bleary eyed, we stumbled out of bed and down the train tracks (a.k.a. the main street) to the bus stop. Which was mobbed. I reckon that there must have bee 6-700 people all wanting to beat the crowds and get the first bus up. Luckily the first bus was actually 21 buses, so nobody was left stranded.
We got into the site and headed uphill (along with 698 other people - and the 200 or so a day that walk there - they must be really annoyed to see the mobs of geriatrics arriving by bus).
As MP (I can't be bothered trying to remember how many 'c's are in each bit of Machu Picchu) is on the top of a hill, but a hill that is lower than those around it, it is actually very light before the sun gets visible.
It is pretty though.
Finally the sun came. Now, I'm not sure what I expected, but it was really quite a disappointment. It just got brighter (and, to be fair, warmer). Not the dramatic sights and sounds of Tikal Temple IV (post passim). Anyway, once the sun had come up, people started moving around and the place felt less busy.
MP is pretty. The three things that mark it out are:
After five hours (we did alot of sitting down and soaking up the place) we headed back to the entrance.
We then had a nice, but very expensive, lunch and went back down on the bus (walking down was discussed, but not very seriously). Back at the hotel, we slept the sleep of the just until it was time for tea.
Agua(s) Calientes is alot lower than where we have been for the last three weeks or so, therefore, within seconds of arriving in town I had been bitten by some bastard flying thing. To be fair, it was the only bite either of us got the whole time; it must have been some special VIP welcome.
Anyway, after shivering through our posh journey (56USD instead of 16USD for the not posh, but couldn't possibly be any colder journey!) and savouring our complimentary breakfast - oh yes, that cold chicken sandwich showed those cheapskates on the scum train, we rolled into town.
At the station we went to the sign for our 'splash-out' hotel. They had a list of people that they were expecting and we were not on it.
After a bit of faffage they decided to let us get to reception, where they gave us cold towels (just to cool everyone down another degree or two, I guess) and took our passports. When I finally got access to the internet (amazingly, they had no Wi-Fi) I realised that we were exactly one month early for our reservation. T and I were really quite relieved, as we were coming to the conclusion that we wouldn't be getting value for our pennies. We trudged into town ...
After hard bargaining, we settled into a reasonable hotel and wandered into town to work out what to do for the next three days.
Machu Picchu, Pizza and bugger all else, seems to be the town's motto.
We bought our tickets for the site (which have doubled in price since the 2007 Lonely Planet was published!) and the bus up the (bloody big) hill.
We then went for a wander down the road to see the museum - it was O.K. but the walk did provide us with our first sighting of the main attraction.
Our first night's meal was at Indio Feliz, which was lovely. Quiche Lorraine to die for.
An early night to catch the bus at 5:30am to get there for sunrise and avoid the crowds.
