Luxury

Another early start to get to the airport to fly down to Guatemala City (either a 30 min flight or a 10 hour bus ride - we chose the former). As we arrived at the airport we were told that the flight would be late as it was misty. That pleased Trudi, who seems to believe that Central American Airlines are just happy-go-lucky scared-of-nothing death traps. So, demonstrating some restraint by not taking off in thick mist reassured her (a bit) that they might care about their (and our) lives.

Upon arrival in Guat. (see, we are going native) we took a ten dollar shuttle to Antigua (no, not that Antigua, Antigua Guatemala).

Trudi had her beady little eyes on the most posh hotel in the guide book (a 5 star converted monastary), I suggested that there might be nice places to stay other than there. So we trundled off to the INGUAT Tourist Information centre. (Who were only marginally useful - I must say.)

As it turned out, the only place left that had a double room for two nights (that was acceptable to her ladyship) was, you guessed it, Casa Santa Domingo. I bet you are all shocked about that revalation. You can tell that it is nice because it has rose petals in water everywhere - apparently.

After a beautiful night's sleep (although interrupted by lorry/bus horn honking at five thirty am) and a wonderful evening meal, we are fully refreshed. Trudi has her sense of humour back in full effect - which is, I must confess, a mixed blessing.

The place is stunning, and very relaxing as you can see

Also, at 5,000 feet it is pleasantly cool and there are no nasty insects to spoil our days. Very nice.

Tomorrow we head off to Lago de Atitlan fow a few days. Apparently it's cold there.

Valentine's day in Flores

After our early rise to see sunrise in Tikal, we decided to have a mellow day in Flores. In the morning we wandered around the small town and had a nice lunch, then we chartered a boat for a tour. (O.K. we wandered to the local jetty to ask a bloke to take us for an hour trip around the lake.) We had a bit of a Spanish lesson thrown in for free as he explained to us about the lake, the towns and the crocodiles.

At one point he told us that the bit of the lake we were in was very good for swimming. I required no second bidding.

After some more lazing, reading and swimming, we wandered through town looking for a nice meal. Eventually we returned to the lovely 'La Luna' (where we had eaten the night before) for a nice meal. Flores was pleasantly thin on the "Valentine's Day" promotional stuff, it was very nice.

Tikal

After sunrise, we were taken on a guided tour of the site (amazingly, the war with Caracol was not mentioned once). Trudi did a great job getting up and down this monument.

The buildings and the views are just stunning, and, with the heat down and the 'other people' factor low - it was a great place to enjoy.

As we were leaving the park at 11.00 am - the throngs were arriving. Back to the hotel for a well earned siesta.

Spectacular sunrise

We were picked up from our hotel a little after three and taken the one and a bit hour trip to the park at Tikal. At the stroke of five we started our march through the pitch black towards Temple IV. The walk took the best part of 45 minutes and then there was a steep climb up some wooden staris to the top. We were rewarded with a magnificent sunrise.

Guatemela Bound

We arrived at the bus station just as the 8am bus to the border was leaving, we were ushered on and found some seats, the short trip to the last town (Benque Viejo) was uneventful and we alighted into the arms of a throng of wating taxi drivers. We were whisked to the border (2 miles away) and deposited into the arms of waiting money changers. After paying out exit fees, we changed all our Belize dollars for Guatemalan Quetzales and left Belize into the arms of a throng of (Ok, two) taxi drivers.

After working out that we were actually in no-mans land, we got our entry stamps into Guatemala and continued haggling with the Taxi drivers (we had gone from 45 USD to 40USD by this point). Trudi wasn't keen on a taxi (most people wouldn't be if you look at them), so we decided to stop for a drink whilst consulting the guide book. The quote dropped to USD35 and then Q250 (about USD32). Meanwhile, we'd decide to walk across the bridge and try to get a minivan to Flores. We stopped a taxi, and for Q10 he said he'd take us to the town (uphill about a mile) to get a minivan. After about 200yds he spotted a minivan going the other way, asked if there was space and, before we could blink, our luggage was strapped to the roof and we were hurting towards Flores. He still charged us Q10 (but, very kindly told us that the fare for the minivan was Q30 - judging by what the others were paying - that was the tourist rate).

Our minivan driver dropped us (for USD9) outside a nice looking hotel that we'd spotted in the guide book and we went to the bar for a beer overlooking the lake.

Trudi did a bit of a scout around and decided we would stay there. We are here for 3 nights. The room looks out over the lake and the sunset views are astounding.

We decided that we needed one day for Tikal and one day for the town/relaxation/shopping/laundry. There are hundred of ways to 'do' Tikal from Flores and every third shop seems to offer tours. Eventually we decided that the sunrise trip (leaving the hotel at 3am) looked to be pretty astounding. Striking whilst the iron was hot, we booked for the following day (Tuesday). After booking flights to Guatemala city on Thursday We had an early night.

Caracol

Caracol was pretty interesting and the guide was knowledgable, as he had worked on some of the excavations himself. We learned a few things about Guatemala (from a Belizean)

• All Belizean Mayan ruins have been and are being looted from Guatemala
  
• Guatemala people are responsible for cutting down a certain type of palm, to make shampoo, the have cut all of them down in Guatemala, so now they are coming into Belize to steal them.
  
• Caracol had a war with Tikal and won (repeat a few times an hour)
  
• Tikal has been rebuilt, Caracol is in it`s original (i.e. as they found it) state.
  

Here is a picture of me in front of the main temple I am about to climb.

And here is the view of a smaller temple from the top

The really stunning views from the top were of 360 degrees of jungle canopy - all the way to the horizon - the view was quite spectacular, but a camera could not do it justice.

We returned in a different minivan, with different, marginally friendlier tourists, via their amazing looking resort at Five Sisters. As we descended into the valley of San Ignacio the heavens opened. We had an early night, ready for our trip to Guatemala.

Caracol Kings

Got up early to get breakfast at Annie's before our Caracol adventure. When we arrived, Trudi commented that something smelled nice, Annie quipped "That is because you are English and this is bacon". We had bacon in tortillas and a cup of tea.

David said that his rather sorry looking pickup truck was broken and so he had arranged alternative transport. Sure enough, at eight o'clock, a rather battered minivan arrived with "Caracol King" emblazoned across the top. David introduced us to David and we rattled off.

After an hour and a half of bone-shaking travel on sandy 'roads' (heaven only knows what happens to them when it rains) we arrived at a military checkpoint where there were policemen with guns and barracks for the British army. We stopped here awhile to allow all the vehicles (7 vans and two 4x4s) to congregate. Then we we led down another 'road' by a pickup with 4 armed men in it. We didn't demand too many details as to why that might be necessary, allowing ourselves to be told - it's for safety.

Meanwhile, the Caracol King minivan was becoming increasingly difficult for David to get into gear, after about 40 minutes, we go onto some paved road (wierd but true) and the police truck slowed in front of us on a steep hill, David had to change down and, with an almighty BANG, we were stopped. Everyone just passed us, no wanting to stop on the hill, I guess.

The police came back, as did one of the guides from another bus (who, we found out, owned Caracol King). After berating David for having the temerity to change gear on a hill, we were told to walk up the hill to the awaiting (much nicer) bus. Where we were sort-of welcomed by the tour group inside. They were from some wildlife society and I think were expecting to have no interlopers.

Tomb Raider

After a quiet morning in San Ignacio - we wandered up to the local Mayan site at Cahal Pech. Trudi did her Lara Croft impression - without the guns.

A wander back through a less nice part of town and a brief rest before attacking the internet.

Drinking is FUN - try this